Stari Grad translates to Old Town and as the name suggests, this is one of Croatia’s oldest towns dating back to 385BC when it was first settled by the Greek.

You’ll find this old charming town on the northern side of Hvar Island tucked into a deep sheltered bay, hack you might even land here if you’re taking the car ferry from Split to Stari Grad!

Many travellers just get off the ferry without a second thought and head off to the town of Hvar, but boy are they missing out!

Are you planning a trip to Hvar?
Make sure to check all the Hvar travel guides!

In a hurry?
These are the best things to do in Stari Grad:

Wine and olive oil tasting
Rent a Quad and explore the Kabal Peninsula
Cycle the Stari Grad Plains on this e-bike tour
Explore lavender fields

Where to stay in Stari Grad

Stari Grad is the quieter, more refined alternative to Hvar town and you should stay in Stari Grad if you prefer a good dinner over a night out.

We’ve written a whole article on Hvar accommodation which will help you choose the best town (and area) to base yourself on Hvar island.

14 fabulous things to do in Stari Grad, Hvar

Stari Grad is the quieter, more authentic alternative to Hvar town and, in peak season, a very welcome retreat form all the craziness and parties of Hvar town. With a peaceful harbour, a long riva, charming stone alleys and gorgeous hinterlands and bays, Stari Grad is a true gem you must explore!

PS. There’s more than one Stari Grad (sometimes also spelled Starigrad) in Croatia and there’s a few towns named Stari Grad in other parts of the Balkans too. This is just a common way of saying old town that often stuck and turned into the official name of a settlement. Keep this in mind when researching online as google sometimes gets confused which Stari Grad is on Hvar Island, and which ones are elsewhere.

1. Find some calm in the Petar Hektorovic Fortress (Tvrdalj)

Petar Hektorović was a Croatian writer and poet who was born and died in Stari Grad. Tvrdalj was his summer residence, a Renaissance home that was later fortified so that it could act as shelter before the Turks for the local citizens.

Inside you’ll find a beautiful sea water fish pond surrounded by arcs, a peaceful garden and the old kitchen at the back. The living quarters are closed to the public and are privately owned.

We really enjoyed the peace and quiet at this little pond and gardens and spent more time here than we care to admit. This place really has a certain je ne sais quoi about it that makes you feel so relaxed!

Location: Tvrdalj of Petar Hektorović, Stari Grad
Opening Times: 10:30AM–1:30PM
Entrance fee: 20 kuna

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2. Stroll down the Stari Grad Riva

The waterfront along the Stari Grad marina is filled with cafes, bars, restaurants, shops and ice cream shops. With fishing boats and little day-cruisers swaying on the gentle waves on one side and centuries old houses on the other, the Stari Grad riva is the perfect spot for people watching and evening strolls.

Unlike Hvar, the Riva in Stari Grad gets sun until minutes before sunset and is much more relaxed and quieter than its counterpart.

3. Meander the Stari Grad Stone Lanes

Our favourite part about old towns like Stari Grad is it’s pedestrian only core centre with a maze of narrow streets. One of our favourite things to do in Stari Grad was getting lost in its beautiful stone lanes and discovering hidden corners, souvenir shops, cozy bars and restaurants.

As you meander the charming alleyways you’ll undoubtfuly stumble upon Skor square, the picture perfect old square complete with the ancient homes, lazy cats and cute windows filled with flowers.

4. Marvel at the many Churches in Stari Grad

One thing is certain, there is no shortage of churches, monasteries, white crosses or other religious buildings in Croatia, and Stari Grad is no exception.

St. Stephens church and its historic bell tower are among the most popular sights in Stari Grad. The Dominican Monastery has a small museum you can visit and a delightful little garden. Then there’s St. Rocco Church, just around the corner from Petar Hektorović square, dedicated to the patron of Stari Grad.

5. Visit the Field of Pharos

Legend has it that 400 years BC the Greeks settled in Stari Grad and started farming on the Field of Pharos, today known as the Stari Grad Plains. They cleaned the soil of any rocks and used them to build division walls for the 74 equal partitions – one for each founding family.

Today the Stari Grad plains are a UNESCO world heritage site, protected for the preservation of the ancient chora, a geometrical system of land division used by the ancient Greeks. Here you’ll also find several roman ruins and archaeological sites.

To this day the fertile lands of the plains are home to olive groves vineyards, lavander fields and working farms.

6. Go wine tasting at Hora Winery Hvar

In the heart of the Stari Grad Plains you’ll find a gorgeous agrotourism, Hora Winery. They mainly serve their own products; wine, olive oil, cheese and cold cuts. On top of that they offer peka (order at least 2h in advance!) and BBQ dishes.

We did the wine and olive oil tasting at Hora Winery and not only was it fabulous, but very reasonably priced too! For 120 kuna we got to try 4 wines, three of their olive oils and were served a platter of cold cuts, cheese, anchiovies and home made bread.

We did a wine and olive oil tasting at Hora Winery and not only was it fabulous, but very reasonably priced too! On top of that they offer peka (order at least 2h in advance!) and BBQ dishes if you choose to have dinner here.

Location: Hora Winery, Stari Grad
Opening Times: By reservation only, call +385 91 531 8781

7. Hike to the White Cross on Glavica Hill

Glavica hill is the highest peak above Stari Grad and offers 360-degree views over Stari Grad, the plains, Vrboska, Jelsa, Kabal Peninsula and the nearby islands. This is the spot to be to enjoy a beautiful sunset display!

On top of the hill there is a big white cross and a church, as well as an outdoor church where special masses are held.

There is a clearly marked path starting from Ul. kralja Tomislava, that leads to the top of the hill. Just follow the signs for Vidikovac Glavica and ignore Google maps. The hike takes about 15 minutes and is steep and there’s not much shade so try to do it in the morning or evening to avoid the mid-day heat.

Location: Glavica Hill, Stari Grad
Path starting point: Ul. kralja Tomislava

8. Grab ice cream at L’amore Per Il Gelato

Oh boy, my mouth starts watering just thinking about this creamy, rich, delicious gelato! This is the best ice cream we had in all of Croatia and it would be a sin going to Hvar and not trying it. If there’s a line it’s totally worth the wait, the ice cream is absolutely delicious.

They only opened the store in Stari Grad this year but the recepies have been proven and tested at their original location in Hvar town … just in case you were wondering where to get a scoop outside of Stari Grad.

Location: L’amore Per Il Gelato, Stari Grad
Opening Times: 10 am – 11 pm

9. Explore the Kabal Peninsula

The Kabal Peninsula is often an overlooked part of Hvar but for us it was definitely one of the highlights of our trip!

As you drive past the village of Rudina the tarmac turns into gravel and the further you drive, the more immersed into nature you get. The peninsula is covered in pine forests and surrounded by water so clear you could almost drink it!

On Kabal you’ll find some the most beautiful bays on the island and you’ll only have to share them with a handful of people (if any) and loads of fish.

At the tip of the peninsula you’ll find Tito’s caves. This concrete shelter with a channel of interconnecting underground caves was built into the rocks to guard the entrance to the Stari Grad Channel.

Insider tip: Rent a quad to explore the Kabal Peninsula. A big part of it is doable with a normal car (note that rentals might not allow you on gravel roads!) but you’ll get much further and have way more fun on a quad! Make sure to get my Hvar Google Map for more gems like this one!

10. Chill at Tiha Lounge Bar

Tiha Lounge is our little secret and on a regular year we probably would have decided not to share it with the world. Some places are just meant to stay small and authentic, and Tiha is one of them. However, after the rough covid times, we believe this little gem can use all the support we can give it.

Tiha Lounge truly does have a soul, and is a living, breathing manifestation of the owners love for this part of the world, art, crafts and great hospitality. Tiha translates to the quiet one and as the name suggests, this lounge bar is a place to relax and retreat. In this cozy Hvar beach club you won’t find crazy parties late in the night, but you will be treated like family and you will fall in love with the quirky decor, bluest of waters and chilled vibes.

Location: Tiha Lounge Bar, Kabal Peninsula
Opening Times: 12PM-10PM(-ish), in high season reserve a docking spot
Make sure to get my Hvar Google Map for more gems like this one!

11. Have the most amazing dinner at Konoba Kokot

If we only had one mean on Hvar Island we’d want to have it at Konoba Kokot. Sure, the tables might not all be perfectly level and the plates might not be beautifully decorated (and definitely not half empty), but this family run restaurant will show you what true Dalmatian hospitality really is.

Grandma Jagoda and her (extended) family will welcome you with home made grappa in their own backyard and treat you like a long time friend.

Everything they serve, they produce themselves or source from locals they know and trust. Here you’ll only get the freshest ingredients from the island, veggies from their garden, cheese from their own goats, lamb from their kettle, boar hunted in the nearby hills and the daily catch from the Adriatic sea.

We had several amazing dinners at Konoba Kokot and they always went above and beyond. They even made octopus peka for one since Tom refuses to eat anything resembling squid! Peka (often translated to under the bell) is something similar to an earth oven and is usually made for at least two people since it takes a lot of time and preparation.

Peka is a speciality you must try and order ahead of time (it takes 2 hours to cook). You can choose between octopus, fish and different kinds of meat.

Location: Konoba Kokot, Dol
Opening Times: Every day 6PM – 1AM
Make sure to get my Hvar Google Map for more gems like this one!

12. Visit nearby Jelsa

Jelsa is a delightful small town with a relaxed vibe. It is located along a deep inlet with a large marina (here you can boar the catamaran towards Bol) and expands over steep hills on either side.

Jelsa is a fabulous town to explore with it’s beautiful streets, cute shops and fabulous restaurants. Here we have found the best ice cream shop and even more churches on a tiny area than usual, even for Croatian standards!

13. Hop over to Vrboska

Vrboska is a tiny fishermen village along a canal that seeps far inland. Vrboska is also known as the Venice of Hvar due to its stone bridges and long canal on which you’ll find a small islet and a lone palm tree on it.

Vrboska is very charming but keep in mid that it is very small and apart for a few restaurants, the fishermen museum and a couple of churches there isn’t much to it, but we do think it’s a nice pit stop if you like to explore beyond the hotspots. Not to mention that here you’ll fine one of our favourite beaches on Hvar!

14. Drive through Brusje and Velo grablje

Take the scenic backroads from Hvar town to Stari Grad which will take you through Brusje and Velo Grablje. Brusje is often recommended as THE spot to visit lavender fields.

Now, before your expectations get out of hand, you won’t find massive Lavander fields on Hvar. No perfect infinite purple lines and definitely no purple hills. With the boom of tourism, lavender farms got abandoned as people started focusing on the tourism and hospitality sectors.

The lavander fields of Brusje and Velo Grablje are just a vague reminder of what once was a leading industry on Hvar island. However, these tiny villages and the roadside views are a nice to see if you have some time to spare or would like to explore the off-beat Hvar.

This lavender tour will give you better insights and show you the fields and lavender produce on the island. This Hidden Gems Tour is fantastic as it takes you not just to the villages but also Napoleon fort!

Getting to Stari Grad

There is no commercial airport on Hvar and in order to reach the island you’ll have to take a boat or a ferry from Split, Drvenik or one of the surrounding islands. On the island you can get around with a car, scooter, quad or boat.

Most visitors come to Hvar from Split, and if that’s the case with you, make sure to check out my Split itinerary to make the most of your time in Split Old Town and its surroundings.

Car ferry

There ferry line from Split Hvar will drop you off just outside Stari Grad historic centre. While you can usually just rock up at the port and get a ferry ticket there, in high season it’s better to book it ahead of time.

Book your car ferry.

Private transfers

Private transfers by speedboat are the fastest way of getting to Hvar island and often include pick up from the airport.

They’re a fabulous option for bigger groups, late arrivals and anyone wanting to take some extra precautions with social distancing and Covid safety. Private transfers are also a lot more flexible in terms of drop off points and can get you much closer to your chosen accommodation on Hvar.

Book your private transfer here.

By car

If you are visiting Stari Grad from other parts of the island then getting there by car is easy. The roads between Stari Grad, Vrboska, Jelsa and Hvar town are all very nice.

By scooter

A scooter is a fabulous way to explore Hvar! It’s easy, affordable and the island is just small enough that you can get almost anywhere by scooter. OK, maybe not Sucuraj or you won’t be able to feel your ass by the end of it.

Navigating the narrow roads and parking is a lot easier when you have a scooter, just make sure you get one that’s strong enough to get you over the hills before you get old!

Hire a 125cc scooter

By Quad (ATV)

There’s plenty of gravel and dirt roads on Hvar and certain areas are better explored with a 4×4! We’d recommend you rent an ATV to be better able to explore the Kabal Peninsula.

Rent an ATV

Use public transport

There are several busses per day that connect the main towns and villages on Hvar island as well as water taxi services you can use.

Where to eat in Stari Grad

We already mentioned Konoba Kokot and Hora Winery, which we think are absolutely fabulous and a must try.

However, they’re both a bit out of town so if you’re looking for something closer, try Konoba Antika or Villa Apolon.

Antika is located in one of the alleys, serves delicious seafood and has a very relaxed vibe while still being stylish.

Apolon is the only restaurant on Hvar to be mentioned in the Michelin guide. We haven’t had a chance to try it for ourselves but a friend of ours couldn’t stop talking about their gnocchi. She’s a bit of a foodie, so we do trust her and think you should too!

Best time to visit Hvar island

The best time to visit Stari Grad is in May, early June or September. Unlike Hvar, Stari Grad doesn’t get too hectic or too loud in the high season, however it does get busier and more expensive in the peak of summer.

If you visit Stari Grad before May or after September you might find it in a very sleepy state which might take away from its charm.

Planning a trip to Hvar?

Hvar is a beautiful island and we’re sure you’ll love it! To help you plan your trip to Hvar Island we’ve prepared a series of travel guides for you and for an easy plug and play solution, feel free to swipe our Hvar itinerary!

Ultimate Hvar
Travel Guide

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