Driving in Croatia: Honest Guide for Tourists Renting a Car

If you’re wondering what driving in Croatia is really like, the honest answer is: easier than most people expect, but not completely effortless.

I’ve driven through Croatia more times than I can count, including the coast, islands, ferry ports, national park routes, Split, Zadar, Makarska, small beach roads, and plenty of old towns that were absolutely not designed with modern cars in mind.

Overall, Croatia is one of the easier countries to drive in this part of Europe. The highways are good, the scenery is ridiculous, and having a car can make places like Istria, Plitvice Lakes, Krka National Park, Pelješac, Makarska Riviera, and smaller beaches much easier to explore.

That said, driving in Croatia comes with a few classic travel annoyances: narrow old-town streets, one-way systems, pedestrian zones, high-season traffic, limited parking, ferry queues, and the occasional roadside beach parking situation where everyone seems to be making it up as they go along.

If you’re coming from the US, UK, Ireland, Australia, or anywhere where roads are wider or you usually drive on the left, give yourself a little adjustment time. Croatia is very driveable, but it’s still Europe. Tiny streets, confident local drivers, and limited parking are part of the package.

Is Driving in Croatia Easy?

Yes, driving in Croatia is mostly easy, especially if you’re comfortable driving in Europe.

The main highways are modern, clearly signed, and much easier than winding through coastal towns in high season. Roads between major destinations like Zagreb, Zadar, Split, Šibenik, Dubrovnik, Plitvice Lakes, and Krka National Park are generally straightforward.

Personally, I’ve never found driving around Croatia especially stressful. But I’m also used to Croatia and European roads, so I wouldn’t say every first-time visitor will feel the same straight away.

Croatia is not scary to drive in, but you do need to pay attention. The roads are usually good. The annoying part is rarely the driving itself. It’s parking, old towns, ferry timing, and summer crowds.

If you’re used to wide roads, automatic cars, huge parking lots, and driving everywhere by default, Croatia may feel a little tighter and more fiddly. If you’re coming from the UK, Ireland, Australia, or another country where you drive on the left, the biggest adjustment will be driving on the right, roundabouts, junctions, and road positioning.

What Side of the Road Do They Drive on in Croatia?

In Croatia, people drive on the right-hand side of the road and overtake on the left.

If you’re from the US, Canada, or most of mainland Europe, this part will feel normal. If you’re from the UK, Ireland, Australia, New Zealand, or South Africa, this is the first thing to keep in mind when renting a car in Croatia.

The actual roads are not the problem. The adjustment usually happens at roundabouts, intersections, and parking exits where your instinct may briefly try to betray you.

Croatia Speed Limits

Croatia uses the metric system, so road signs and speed limits are in kilometers per hour. I’ve added rough mph equivalents below for US and UK readers, but follow the km/h signs when driving.

Unless signs say otherwise, these are the standard speed limits in Croatia:

Road Type	Speed Limit	Approx. mph
Built-up areas	50 km/h	31 mph
Roads outside towns	90 km/h	56 mph
Expressways	110 km/h	68 mph
Motorways / highways	130 km/h	81 mph

Always follow the posted signs. Speed limits can change around towns, tunnels, bends, roadworks, schools, ferry ports, and tourist-heavy areas.

Also, don’t assume that just because a local is driving like they’re late for the birth of their first child, you should follow (I know it’s tempting!). Croatia has speed cameras, police checks, and plenty of roads where speeding is just not worth it.

Speed Cameras, Police Checks and Motorway Etiquette

Speed cameras and police checks are common enough that you should treat speed limits as actual limits, not decorative roadside suggestions. This is especially true on local roads, near towns, around schools, and in places where the limit suddenly drops.

On Croatian motorways, use the left lane for overtaking and move back to the right when you’re done. If you’re not comfortable driving fast, that’s fine but stay right and don’t camp in the overtaking lane.

You may get locals driving faster behind you, especially on coastal roads. Pull up and let them pass when it’s safe.

Basic Road Rules in Croatia Tourists Should Know

You don’t need to memorize every Croatian traffic law before your trip, but these are the main driving rules tourists should know before getting behind the wheel.

Rule	What to Know
Driving side	Drive on the right, overtake on the left.
Seatbelts	Seatbelts are required even in the back.
Mobile phones	Do not use a handheld phone while driving.
Alcohol	Don’t drink and drive. Even if a legal limit applies, the safest tourist rule is zero drinks if you’re driving.
Right turn on red	Do not turn right at a red light unless a sign or signal specifically allows it. This is especially important for US drivers.
Overtaking lane	Use the left lane for overtaking, then move back to the right.
Headlights	Check current seasonal rules, especially if driving outside summer.
Children	Families should book child seats in advance and check age/height requirements.
Emergency number	Call 112 for emergencies in Croatia and the EU.
Documents	Carry your driving licence, passport/ID, rental paperwork if applicable, and insurance documents.

If you’re renting a car, the rental company should explain what documents you need, but don’t leave this until the desk. Check the rental conditions before booking, especially if your licence is from outside the EU.

Do You Need an International Driving Permit in Croatia?

This depends on where your driving licence was issued and what your rental company requires.

If you have an EU or EEA driving licence, you generally do not need an International Driving Permit for Croatia. If you’re coming from outside Europe, especially from the US, Canada, Australia, or another non-EU country, check both the official advice for your country and the rental company’s terms before you book.

An International Driving Permit is not a replacement for your actual licence. It’s a translation document, so you need to carry it together with your valid driving licence.

What Are Roads Like in Croatia?

Croatian roads vary a lot depending on where you are. The motorway from Zagreb to the coast feels very different from a tiny stone street in an old town or a narrow gravel road down to a beach on Hvar.

Motorways in Croatia

Croatia’s motorways are generally very good. They are modern, fast, well marked, and the easiest way to cover longer distances.

If you’re driving from Zagreb to Zadar, Split, Šibenik, or toward the coast, the motorway is usually the simplest option. It’s not always the most scenic route, but it saves a lot of time and energy.

The main downside is that most Croatian motorways are tolled. But honestly, if you’re trying to move efficiently across the country, the tolls are usually worth it.

Coastal Roads in Croatia

Croatia’s coastal roads are much more scenic, but also winding and slower.

Expect bends, viewpoints, scooters, pedestrians, cyclists, buses, small villages, and random moments where everyone slows down because the view looks too good to ignore.

The coastal road is especially beautiful around parts of Dalmatia, Makarska Riviera, Pelješac, and the stretches between smaller towns and beaches. But if Google Maps says something takes longer than expected, believe it. Coastal driving is not motorway driving. Congestions are common.

Old Town Streets

This is where driving in Croatia gets annoying.

Many Croatian towns have old centers with narrow streets, one-way traffic, restricted access, pedestrian zones, delivery-only areas, and stone lanes that were clearly not built for cars.

Split, Zadar, Trogir, Šibenik, Rovinj, Hvar Town, Korčula Town, and Dubrovnik are all places where you should think carefully before trying to drive too close to the old town.

Usually, the best move is simple: check parking in advance, leave the car outside the historic center, and walk in.

Island Roads

Island roads in Croatia are usually manageable, but they can be narrow, winding, and slower than mainland roads.

On islands like Hvar, Brač, Korčula, Vis, Mljet, and Dugi Otok, a car can be useful if you want to explore beaches, viewpoints, villages, wineries, or quieter parts of the island. But if you’re only staying in the main town for a day, a car may be more hassle than help.

Before taking a car to a Croatian island, check three things:

• ferry schedules and availability,
• whether your accommodation has parking,
• and whether you actually need the car once you’re there.

Also check if you’re allowed to take the car onto the ferry if you have a rental car.

Driving in Croatian Cities

You usually don’t need a car inside Croatian city centers, but you may drive through or around them if you’re doing a road trip.

The key thing to remember is that Croatian city driving is not usually chaotic in the “total madness” sense. The bigger issue is practical: pedestrian zones, one-way systems, limited parking, old town restrictions, and hotel access.

Driving in Zagreb

I haven’t driven through Zagreb city traffic nearly as much as I’ve driven the coast, but Zagreb does not feel especially hectic compared with many European capitals.

That said, most visitors don’t need a car inside Zagreb itself. It’s more useful if you’re picking up a rental car to continue toward Plitvice Lakes, Istria, Zadar, Split, or the coast.

If you are renting a car for a Croatia road trip, Zagreb Airport can be a practical pickup point because you can avoid driving through the tightest parts of the city center and head straight toward your next destination.

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Driving in Split

Driving around Split is manageable, but driving into the historic center is not the move.

Diocletian’s Palace and the Riva are pedestrian areas, so you are not driving into the heart of the Old Town. The streets around the center can also be busy, narrow, and one-way, especially in summer or around the ferry port.

If you’re staying in Split Old Town, ask your accommodation exactly where to park before arrival. Many apartments inside or near the historic center do not have private parking at the door, even when they’re technically “central.”

Useful parking areas to check include the parking lots around the ferry/bus/train station area, paid parking around the Riva edges where available, Sukoišan, and larger lots or garages slightly outside the center. For longer stays, it can be easier to park outside the most central zone and walk or take a taxi in.

A car is useful for day trips from Split to places like Krka National Park, Trogir, Klis Fortress, Omiš, Makarska Riviera, or even Plitvice Lakes if you don’t want a tour. But for Split itself, you’ll mostly be walking.

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Driving in Zadar

Zadar is easier than Split in some ways, but the Old Town parking situation can still be annoying, especially in high season.

Zadar Old Town sits on a peninsula, and while there are roads and parking areas around parts of the peninsula, you do not want to treat it like a normal drive-in city center. The historic core itself is best explored on foot.

The most useful parking areas to check are around the Old Town edges, especially near Ravnice/Land Gate/Foša, Liburnska Obala, and the wider Jazine area across the footbridge. Availability changes fast in summer, so check the current parking zones and payment rules before arriving.

Do not show up assuming you’ll magically find a perfect space next to the Sea Organ at sunset. You and everyone else had that genius idea.

A car is very useful if you’re using Zadar as a base for day trips to Plitvice Lakes, Krka National Park, Nin, Pag, Paklenica National Park, or beaches outside the city.

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Driving in Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik is the place where I’d be most careful about having a car near the historic center.

You cannot drive into Dubrovnik Old Town. The historic center is pedestrian-only, and the streets around Pile Gate, Ploče, and the Old Town access points are some of the most controlled and congested parts of the city.

Dubrovnik has also introduced stricter traffic management around the historic core, including special access rules for certain areas close to the Old Town. Depending on where you’re going, vehicles may need permission, reservation, or valid access reasons to enter the most sensitive zones.

If you’re driving to Dubrovnik, check the current city parking and access rules before arrival, especially if your accommodation is near Pile, Ploče, or the Old Town walls. Do not assume you can just “drop bags quickly” next to the gate. Dubrovnik is not that kind of city anymore.

The main parking options to check include the public garage at Ilijina Glavica, parking around Gradac where available, Pile-area parking if available and permitted, and accommodation-specific parking outside the Old Town. In many cases, it is easier to park farther away and walk, bus, or taxi in.

A car makes more sense if you’re using Dubrovnik as part of a bigger road trip or planning day trips to Pelješac, Cavtat, Montenegro, Mostar, or other places outside the city.

Navigation, Google Maps and Offline Maps

Google Maps and Waze usually work well in Croatia, but don’t follow them blindly into old-town streets, pedestrian zones, ferry-port chaos, or tiny beach roads that look suspicious before you even turn in.

Download offline maps before your trip, especially if you’re driving on islands, through rural areas, or to beaches where phone signal may be weaker.

For ferries, check the ferry company schedule directly instead of relying only on Google Maps. Ferry times can change by season, and car ferry logistics are different from passenger-only catamarans.

Parking in Croatia

Parking is often the most frustrating part of driving in Croatia, especially in summer.

The roads may be fine. The drive may be easy. Then you arrive in a beautiful old town in July and realize every other tourist, local, tour guide, beachgoer, delivery van, and suspiciously confident scooter has arrived at the same time.

In high season, parking is often limited near old towns, beaches, ferry ports, and popular viewpoints. City-center spaces can fill up quickly, and the closest parking may be more expensive or completely full.

If you’re you’re booking accommodation in a historic center, always check whether parking is included, nearby, paid, private, public, or “available somewhere in the general universe.” Those are not the same thing.

Beach parking can also be a little improvised in some places. Around Hvar, Makarska, and smaller coastal or island beaches, you’ll often see cars parked along the roadside when there isn’t a formal car park nearby.

I’ve seen this a lot and personally haven’t had issues, but I would not treat that as a free pass. Don’t block roads, driveways, emergency access, sharp bends, or areas with no-parking signs.

Toll Roads in Croatia

Most major motorways in Croatia are toll roads.

The system is simple: you usually take a ticket when entering the motorway and pay when exiting, based on the distance driven and your vehicle category. You can usually pay by card or cash.

Card is usually the easiest option at motorway tolls, but I still like having some cash as backup for smaller parking lots, older machines, or random “technology is having a day” moments.

If you’re renting a car, you don’t need to do anything complicated unless your rental company gives you an electronic toll device, which is not something I’d assume by default.

Route / Road	Toll Situation	Good to Know
Zagreb to Zadar / Split via A1	Tolled motorway	Usually worth it. Much faster than slower roads.
Zagreb to Rijeka / Istria	Tolled motorway sections	Useful for reaching the coast or Istria efficiently.
Istrian Y / Učka Tunnel	Tolled sections, including Učka Tunnel	Relevant if driving between Rijeka/Kvarner and Istria.
Krk Bridge	No toll currently	Good news if visiting Krk by car.
Pelješac Bridge	No toll currently	Useful for driving toward Pelješac/Korčula or bypassing the old Neum border route.
Short coastal drives	Often no motorway toll	Usually more scenic, but slower.

Some Croatian tunnels and bridges are part of the wider motorway or expressway toll system, rather than a separate booth where you pay just for that bridge or tunnel. The big exception tourists often notice is the Učka Tunnel in Istria, which is part of the tolled Istrian Y road system.

Don’t avoid toll roads just to save a few euros if the alternative adds a lot of time and stress. On a Croatia road trip, your energy is also a budget.

Taking a Car on Ferries in Croatia

Cars can travel on car ferry lines. They cannot travel on passenger-only catamarans or high-speed boats.

This matters because many popular island routes have both passenger catamarans and car ferries, and they may leave from different ports or follow different schedules.

For example, if you’re going to Hvar without a car, you may take a catamaran from Split directly to Hvar Town. If you’re taking a car, you’ll usually be looking at car ferry routes like Split to Stari Grad or Drvenik to Sućuraj, depending on your route.

If you’re driving your own car, ferry logistics are mostly about timing. If you’re driving a rental car, you also need to check whether your rental company allows the car to be taken on ferries.

Driving on Croatian Islands

Driving on Croatian islands can be very useful, but it depends on the island and how long you’re staying.

On larger islands like Hvar, Brač, Korčula, and Dugi Otok, a car can help you reach beaches, viewpoints, villages, wineries, and quieter areas that are harder to visit by bus or taxi.

But if you’re staying in Hvar Town, Korčula Town, Bol, or another compact base for just a night or two, you may not need a car at all. In those cases, ferries, taxis, boat tours, scooters, e-bikes, ATVs, or a one-day local rental may make more sense.

Island	Is a Car Useful?	Best For
Hvar	Sometimes	Beaches, Stari Grad, Jelsa, inland villages, lavender fields
Brač	Often	Vidova Gora, beaches, villages, exploring beyond Bol
Korčula	Sometimes	Wineries, beaches, staying outside Korčula Town
Vis	Sometimes	Remote beaches and island exploring
Mljet	Depends	National park access and moving between villages
Dugi Otok	Often useful	Beaches, cliffs, Sakarun, Telašćica area

The main things to check before driving on an island are ferry schedules, accommodation parking, road distances, and whether you actually want to deal with a car once you’re there.

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Is Driving in Croatia Safe?

Yes, Croatia is generally safe to drive in.

The roads are usually in good condition, especially main roads and highways. Signage is generally clear, and driving between major destinations is not complicated.

Smaller beach roads, island roads, and rural roads can be narrower, rougher, or less forgiving, so slow down and don’t assume every scenic detour will feel like a motorway.

The things that require more attention are coastal roads, overtaking, summer traffic, scooters, pedestrians near beaches, cyclists, narrow island roads, and old-town access.

Croatia is a country where the prettiest roads are often the slower ones, and the most stressful driving usually happens when you’re tired, late, hungry, or trying to find parking in August while everyone in the car suddenly has opinions.

Petrol Stations and EV Charging in Croatia

Petrol stations are common on Croatian motorways, main roads, and around larger towns, so fuel is usually not something to stress about on standard tourist routes.

That said, fill up before heading to remote beaches, smaller islands, rural areas, or late-night drives. You don’t want to discover that the nearest petrol station is closed when you’re already tired and halfway across an island.

If you’re driving an electric car, plan your charging stops in advance, especially outside major towns and on islands. Croatia has EV chargers, but you should not treat charging availability like an afterthought if you’re doing a longer road trip. Plan your charging stops into your itinerary.

Emergencies and Roadside Assistance in Croatia

The emergency number in Croatia and across the EU is 112.

If you’re driving your own car, check your roadside assistance and insurance coverage abroad before the trip. If you’re renting a car, save the rental company’s roadside assistance number before leaving the parking lot.

It’s also worth keeping your rental documents, passport or ID, driving licence, and insurance details somewhere easy to access while driving. Not buried under beach towels, snacks, and the emotional baggage of whoever packed the car.

Driving in Croatia Compared to Other Countries

If you’re already comfortable driving in Europe, Croatia should feel very manageable. If this is your first time driving abroad, choose an easy pickup location, avoid arriving in an old town at peak hour, and don’t make your first drive a complicated ferry-port sprint.

If you’re trying to imagine what driving in Croatia feels like, here’s how I’d compare it.

Compared To	How Croatia Feels
Italy	Usually calmer than many Italian cities, though old towns and parking can still be annoying.
Germany	A little more chaotic in busy coastal areas, especially in summer.
UK/Ireland	The biggest adjustment is driving on the right and dealing with tighter old-town streets.
US/Canada	Roads and parking spaces can feel narrower; manual cars are more common; old towns are less car-friendly.
Greece/Balkans	Generally more organized than some places, but coastal and island roads still require attention.

When Is Renting a Car Worth It in Croatia?

Renting a car in Croatia is worth it when it gives you flexibility you wouldn’t otherwise have.

It is especially useful for national parks, road trips, Istria, remote beaches, wineries, viewpoints, villages, and routes where public transport would waste too much time.

If you do decide to rent a car, I’d compare prices and conditions before booking, especially if you need an automatic car, one-way rental, ferry permission, or cross-border travel.

Driving in Croatia FAQs

Is driving in Croatia difficult?

No, driving in Croatia is not usually difficult. Highways and main roads are generally good and easy to follow. The harder parts are old towns, parking in high season, narrow island roads, ferry logistics, and adjusting if you’re not used to driving on the right.

Is it safe to drive in Croatia?

Yes, Croatia is generally safe to drive in. Roads are usually in good condition, especially major routes and motorways. You still need to be careful on coastal roads, around beaches, in old towns, and during busy summer traffic.

Do tourists need a car in Croatia?

Not always. You don’t need a car for city stays in Split, Dubrovnik, Zagreb, or Hvar Town. A car is much more useful for Istria, national parks, road trips, smaller beaches, villages, and flexible day trips.

Can you drive in Croatia with a US licence?

Many travelers drive in Croatia with a US licence, but you should check whether you also need an International Driving Permit and what your rental company requires. If you’re renting a car, follow the rental company’s licence rules, not just general travel advice.

Can you drive in Croatia with a UK licence?

UK travellers can generally drive in Croatia with a valid UK driving licence for tourist trips, but always check current rules and your rental company’s requirements before booking. The bigger adjustment for UK drivers is driving on the right-hand side of the road.

Can Americans turn right on red in Croatia?

No, do not assume you can turn right on red in Croatia. If you’re used to driving in the US, this is one of the habits to switch off. Only turn if a sign or traffic signal specifically allows it.

Should I rent an automatic car in Croatia?

If you’re not comfortable driving manual, yes. Manual cars are more common in Croatia and often cheaper, but automatics are available if you book early. This is especially important for US and Canadian travellers.

Are there toll roads in Croatia?

Yes, many Croatian motorways are toll roads. You usually take a ticket when entering and pay when exiting, based on the distance driven and vehicle category. Toll roads are often worth using for longer drives because they save a lot of time.

Do you need cash for tolls and parking in Croatia?

You can usually pay motorway tolls by card or cash, and card is often the easiest option. Still, it’s smart to carry some cash for smaller parking lots, older machines, beach parking, or situations where card payment is not working.

Do you pay tolls for bridges and tunnels in Croatia?

Sometimes, but not always as a separate bridge or tunnel payment. Many tunnels and bridges are included in the wider motorway or expressway toll system. The Učka Tunnel in Istria is a notable tolled tunnel route. Krk Bridge and Pelješac Bridge are currently not tolled.

Can you take a car on ferries in Croatia?

Yes, but only on car ferry lines. You cannot take a car on passenger-only catamarans or high-speed boats. In summer, arrive early and check the ferry schedule carefully. If you’re driving a rental car, also check whether the rental company allows ferry travel.

Is parking hard in Croatia?

Parking can be hard in Croatia in high season, especially near old towns, beaches, ferry ports, and popular viewpoints. Always check parking before arrival and be prepared to walk from a car park outside the center.

What emergency number do you call in Croatia?

Call 112 for emergencies in Croatia. If you’re renting a car, also keep the rental company’s roadside assistance number saved somewhere easy to find.

Is it better to drive or take the bus in Croatia?

It depends on your trip. Buses are useful between major towns and can work well if you’re on a budget. Driving is better if you want flexibility, national parks, beaches, villages, Istria, or a road trip with several stops.

Planning a trip to Croatia?

Croatia is a stunning country with historic towns, national parks, islands, beaches, waterfalls and some very sneaky logistics. Distances can look easy on a map, then suddenly your “quick day trip” becomes five hours in a car and a mild personality crisis.

To help you plan your trip properly, I’ve put together a series of practical Croatia travel guides based on years of travelling around the country, from the Dalmatian coast and islands to inland national parks like Plitvice and Krka.